[NO NEW UPDATES] Expedition Dispatches: Makalu Winter Expedition

[NO NEW UPDATES] Expedition Dispatches: Makalu Winter Expedition

Following two straight years of winter attempts on Broad Peak, Simone Moro is back to winter Himalaya: this time with a different target in mind and an old friend at the other end of the rope.

Back to Kathmandu...

Today we arrived in Kathmandu coming directly from Hillary Base camp at 4800 m.
Why? After our winter climb of Makalu and our fast return in ABC I started to  feel cold to my feet and I lost only  partially the sensibility of my toes. Thats why I contacted some doctors and they advised me to make some injection of Eparin and  AVOID to trek down to the valley for 5 days and request an helicopter to avoid any complication to my feet.  So I called Nima Nuru Sherpa and he organize an helicopter for me and Denis but I had quickly to organize a night trekking to the low BC, 1000 meters below the ABC. So in the darkness we walked carefully down and this morning at 8:00 a.m the helicopter came and in 1 hours we arrived directly to Kathmandu. Immediately I had been visited by a Doctor, specialist in frostbite, and he agreed that the helicopter  evacuation had been a necessary  solution.  I have to visit him again Sunday and make again all the medical therapy and treatment.   There is any risk for my feet but I have only to be patient for the next weeks to wait that the sensibility will return completely normal.
Coming Helicopter
Jagat and Mingma (cook and helper) will start to trek down after tomorrow will 15 porters. They will arrive in Kathmandu after 9-10 days.  Today we did the debriefing at the misery of tourism, tomorrow we will have a press conference  and after tomorrow the meeting with Miss Hawley.

Simone meet Nima and thanks GOD

Gear that made the Summit...

My suit and the 2-Meter Dome for the basecamp was my ‘flat’. And, two things: The Solar Flare sleeping bag because I knew I could use in basecamp and the last camp; and, the Spire 40 was a nice pack, not too big, because bigger you have, the more things you put in. The smaller it is, it’s not enough. So, the good compromise was the 40-liter. That’s why I love the new Spire 40. I had quite a nice color – yellow from the down suit and 2-Meter Dome and the green one of the pack.

"In winter the problem is not only the cold -- but it’s enough, one Himalayan Suit from The North Face and it will solve the problem." - Simone Moro, Alpinist

Shop now, for other essential gear from the Makalu Winter Expedition.


               Makalu_2mtrtent   Makalu_solarflare    Makalu_spire40   




Summit, Summit, Summit!

After 29 years of attempts and dreams, finally the last 8000 peaks of Himalaya that was still unclimbed in the winter season, ad been climbed….

Approaching the real makalu summit

It was 1:53 pm of the 9th February 2009 when Denis and I reached the 8485 meters of the top. We had -40° C temperature and 100 km/h wind….. The condition were terrible but we were so happy and proud to achieve that results. “Never Stop Exploring” is the motto of the Company, but never stop dreaming and work to realize also the “impossible” adventures had been always my personal motto. Many other “impossible” exploration are waiting someone who will attempt and realize them. I will be one of those who will try again o push the limits further more…

Simone Moro

Simone on real makalu summit

Simone frozen mask

Start for Summit Push!

Today was our theoretical day to start for our summit push. The weather is perfect, no clouds, but still strong wind above 7000 meters. Who say that? Karl Gabl, our forecast” guru” of Innsbruck. The weather forecast is like the faith in GOD. Or  you believe in Him or not. Believe only sometimes is the worst think in Alpinism, so since the beginning of the expedition I decided to believe completely and follow the Karl Gabl’s forecast as I did since 2003. Today we didn’t see any storm on the Makalu ridge but we can hear the sound of the wind. Probably it only changed direction. So following the last information of Karl we decided to wait 24 hours more. Today and tomorrow the wind above 7000 meters should be over 100 km/h, and Sunday and Monday morning 70km/h. So our summit attempt should be Monday morning after spending the night at 7700 meters in our superlight,small, single wall tend that The North Face prepared for us. I really hope that once more Karl Gabl will be right and we will have the energy to climb so high in so cold and windy conditions…


Simone with Manfrotto tripod

Still Windy!

Today the weather is fantastic (in base camp) and the wind continue to be over 120Km/h above 7400. So after 4 days rest we decided to make some training going to camp 1 and back quite fast… 1 hour 10 minutes to go camp 1 and 28 minutes to come back (I recorded with my heart rate monitor and GPS POLAR). Just to keep feet our muscle. It look that the weather will remain sunny and the wind should decrease the speed till 90KM/h in the weekend. So we are thinking to start Friday to camp 2, Saturday to C3 and Sunday …maybe…summit push…. It will be very important the weather forecast that Karl Gabl will send us tomorrow. We want to send our best wishes also to our friends to Broad Peak hoping that will have soon  3-4 days of good weather and low wind.


Simone and Denis

Shoulder of Makalu

A Perfect Summit Day!

Second day of February and second day of live conference with The North Face during the ISPO, the international sport exhibition in Munchen, Germany. Today the weather is very good…a perfect summit day but often the weather “play” with the climber giving 24 hours of perfect weather to make the alpinist nervous…  So today we enjoy the sun inside our warm tends hoping to have similar condition during our net push. Yesterday it had been also the opportunity for me to make a domestic video/audio live connection with my daughter Martina using SKYPE. It had been a nice moment and we talk a lot about everything. I also told her that during our approach to the mountain we saw a snow leopard in Hillary base camp. Yesterday the technology gave us the possibility to share nice familiar moments…


Simone Filming


Calculation, Snow Leopard

SKYPE with Martina

Second day of rest!

Today is the second of rest here in ABC at 5680 m. We came back 2 days ago fro the "gate" of Makalu La 7400 and we are now waiting for the next god weather window to climb higher.. Today the weather is not so good. Clouds and wind (but not so strong like the days before). In few minutes I will realize a video and audio live connections with the stand of The North face (my main sponsor) during the ISPO, international sport show in Munich. The technology will give us the opportunity to talk wit our "world". In this days I and Denis are working a lot at PC making reports and preparing future projects...


Communications district

Windy nights...

Today Denis and I decided to continue in our plane despite a terrible windy night and cold temperature.  Karl Gabl our friend and forecast “guru” from Innsbruck, said that today we get a -26 temperature at 7400 m and 110- 120 Km/h wind speed. If we combine the 2 things it means to feel around  -40° degree sensation on the body!! That’s why we fight all the day to climb the narrow and difficult gully toward Makalu La 7400 m. Our feet and hands were frozen. We stopped 50 -80 meters before the “gate” to Makalu La to avoid to be invested by a terrible hurricane and fly away…. Our objective was to test our capacity to work in such extreme conditions and  do another step in our acclimatisation process. Now we are around 1000 meters below the Makalu summit and there are only 10 days we arrived at ABC. That’s why we are happy about or couple work. Now we will have 4 days rest also because I have some video live connections with my main sponsor The North Face during the outdoor ISPO show in Munich.


Simone towards Makalu La

Windy Makalu...

It was 3:00 a.m. when I get the line on my computer thanks the new Thuraya DSL modem just arrived few hours before. Now is a sunny morning, we took breakfast and I start immediately to work with my PC and modem to recuperate the missing time…. Tomorrow our plan I to go to Camp 2 at 6900 m than to Makalu La 7400 and go also higher if the wind will be not so impossible…

Simone at 7000

Last night had been terribly windy here in BC and really I had the sensation to fly away… I was inside my sleeping bag, working with PC and Modem while the hurricane tried to destroy our ABC. Thanks God and thanks The North Face tends we have no damages and everybody and everything are safe. This morning we have sun and no wind in BC. On the mountain the wind speed looks lower than usual…. 

Simone going at 7100m

Now I will publish some photos of our previous days…




January 28th...part 2

After 3 days of crazy wind n the mountain and at ABC, today we had a fantastic weather. Tomorrow we will start to reach Makalu la 7400 m in two days. The forecast said that the wind will be very strong and increasing till Saturday... We will see what we will do.


Makalu + abc

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